More Stabilator Parts (1)

1 hour

I didn't have a whole lot of time to work today, but I started on the next page of parts for the stabilators.  The two angle pieces came in the kit, the ribs only needed a flange cut off, and the hinges just needed to be cut to length.  Pretty easy.

I marked up the fiberglass tips for trimming, but I might wait to actually cut them until I can see how they will fit with the stabilators and ruddervators.

Stabilator Structures Finishing Touches (1)

1 hour

After a quick email exchange with Sonex tech support, I have learned that mandrels breaking off outside of the rivets is a common symptom of slightly-too-large holes.  Since I drilled all my holes up to #30 and then dimpled them, the resulting hole ends up being a tiny bit larger than a normal #30 hole.  So the lesson learned is for flush rivets, drill the holes up to #31 and then dimple them for a tighter fit!

So anyway, today I fixed all the messed up flush rivets that I pulled over the weekend, which was several of them.  I found that on most of them I could tap the mandrel back into the body of the rivet with a small pin punch.  On the mandrels that wouldn't budge I used a small sanding drum on my Dremel tool to (carefully) sand the mandrels down to flush with the rest of the surface.  A couple rivets were hopeless so I just drilled them out and replaced them.  This was a tedious process but now I know how I'll drill my holes for flush rivets in the future, plus I got fairly comfortable drilling rivets out without trashing the holes and I'm sure that skill will come in handy plenty of times in the future.

With that task complete, these stabilator structures are done!

RH Stabilator Structure Part 2 (2)

2 hours

Today I took the RH stabilator structure and finished updrilling all the holes, deburring, and dimpling where appropriate.  Then I riveted the structure together.  I found a good way to get at the rivets on the after spar channel, where there isn't much room for the pneumatic rivet gun.  At least, it's better than the little ramp spacer I think.

I picked up the cheapest rivet gun from Home Depot ($10), which is a little thinner than my pneumatic gun or my other hand riveter.

Then I took the bench grinder to it and removed a little material from the top to give a bit more clearance.

This thing can now reach those rivets inside the aft spar channel no problem!  It makes it a bit easier to make sure I'm pulling the rivets nice and straight too, so they're turning out a little better than the ones I pulled yesterday with my ramp spacer.

However, I'm still having issues with the flush rivet mandrels breaking off outside of the rivets.

 This seems to only happen with the flush rivets.  I've only had one normal rivet do this so far on the whole project, but almost every flush rivet has come out like this!  It doesn't seem to matter if I use my hand riveter or the pneumatic gun either.  I'm going to have to figure out a way to grind those mandrels down to make everything flush.

Aside from a handful of mandrels that need grinding on each structure though, both the LH and RH sides are now done!

LH Stabilator Structure (4.5)

4.5 hours

It's been a busy week so I haven't been able to get much work done until today!  My C-130J training has gotten busy again, and I had my first two flights in an actual airplane this week (prior to that it had been all full-motion simulator training, which I got about 150 hours of)!  Flying a real airplane again finally is great and the J is awesome!!!

Anyway, back to the Waiex.  Today I put together and almost finished the LH stabilator internal structure.

I assembled the structure the same way as the RH side.

Before updrilling the holes to their final size, I drew some lines down the center of each rib and test fit the skin to make sure everything was going to line up reasonably well.

Everything looked pretty good, so I went ahead and updrilled, disassembled, deburred, and dimpled where it was required.  This was my first time using the Sonex "Super Simple Dimple Die."  It seems to work real well with my pneumatic rivet puller and about 40psi from the compressor.

 

I did have to modify one half of the die, in order to access the inside of the rib flanges.  A few minutes on the bench grinder was all it took.  The die only cost about $10 with shipping so no big deal!

With the dimpling complete, I riveted most of the structure together.  I did run into some issues with a few of the flush rivets though.  Some of the mandrels broke off above the face of the rivet, so I'll have to grind them down.  A couple others ended up not quite setting flush with the surface of the part, so I will drill them out and redo them later.  One mandrel even pulled all the way through the rivet and trashed my little ramp spacer, so I had to make a new spacer!

So I have a handful of rivets to do over later, but that's all the time I had for today.  The LH structure is almost done!

RH Stabilator Structure Part 1 (2.5)

2.5 hours

I've got the RH stabilator structure pretty much assembled now, pending updrilling to the final hole sizes and solving one issue that I ran into!

Laying this assembly out was actually easier than I thought it would be.  I figured I should start by constraining the dimensions that are called out on the drawing.  So the first thing I did was attach the forward and aft spars to the tip rib (far right side in the first picture below).  Then I attached the aft end of the inboard rip to the aft spar.

The forward end of the inboard rib attached to the rib clip that's bolted to the forward spar.  This allows you to slide the rib flange and the clip relative to each other in order to properly space the forward and aft spars.  This was tricky with only two hands, but after some serious finagling I got it pretty much perfect so I drilled and cleco'ed that corner together.

With all four sides together, all that's left is to put the four remaining ribs in the middle.

 

This is where I ran into my issue.  The longest of those four ribs (T11-09) was a little too short, so I had to add a 1/16" shim between the rib flange and the forward spar for it to reach the spar and still be square with the aft spar.  I'm not 100% sure if this is acceptable or not, so I'm going to find out before I actually rivet anything.  But I don't really see why not...

 

Once I decide what to do about that, though, this assembly will be just about done!  I just need to go back and drill most of the holes to #30, and wait for my dimple die to arrive since some of the joints call for flush rivets.

Stabilator Leading Edge Ribs (0.5)

0.5 hours

I figured out how to pull those last rivets on my leading edge ribs.  After watching this video, I went and picked up a piece of 1"x1/8" aluminum for a couple dollars at Home Depot.  Then I ground an angle on one end of it, drilled a #40 hole in the face of the "ramp" (perpendicular to the angled face), and cut it off with the bandsaw.  After a few minutes of cleaning up and rounding off the edges with the Scotchbrite wheel, I had my little wedge that would allow me to pull the rivet with my gun at and angle, while still keeping the rivet aligned in the hole.

Then I drilled a #30 hole in the remaining piece of bar stock.  This is just to hold a rivet so I can bend the stem over slightly with my fingers, like this:

Now my little wedge and bent rivet stem fit together like this...

...allowing my rivet gun to pull the stem from an angle that clears the rest of the part.

Done!

Note: I also found an idea for a more elaborate adapter, here.  I might try to make one of these later, but Home Depot didn't have any aluminum that thick and I didn't feel like driving to another store today!

Stabilator Forward Spar Assemblies Part 4 (1.5)

1.5 hours

Picking up where I left off yesterday, went ahead and riveted the RH forward spar assembly together.

Here's the completed part:

After the RH spar was done, I had to repeat the process of cleaning up and deburring the LH side.  once that was done I riveted the LH spar.

Both spar assemblies complete!

The next step will be assembling the stabilator structures.  I realized that some of the joints call for flush rivets, which need dimpled holes, so I went ahead and ordered the Super Simple Dimple Die from Sonex.  After about five minutes of research I decided that would be the cheapest and easiest way to dimple the holes, and I'll need it later anyway for leading edge skins.