Several assorted things done today!
I started by installing the prop drive lugs. I just used a 5/16" bolt just like what is shown in the Aerovee DVD.
The next task was to install the flywheel. I drilled some holes in a 4' long 2x4 so I could bolt it to the prop hub. This gave me something to hold the crankshaft with while I torqued the gland nut on the other side.
Before the flywheel went on, I installed the rear oil seal along with the shims that I selected previously. I just tapped the seal in with a plastic hammer like on the DVD, no special tools required.
Next was the flywheel. I got the gland nut reasonably tight with a ratchet, and then busted out this huge torque wrench that I rented from AutoZone. The torque spec for the gland nut is 227 ft-lbs and this wrench goes up to 400, so it was perfect. It cost me a $350 deposit to rent, but I got it all back when I returned it. I just had to go buy a 3/4" drive socket to use with it, which was still less than $20. Anyway, with my 2x4 prop braced against the table, I was able to hold the "prop" stable with one hand and torque the gland nut with the other.
Next I installed the magnatrons on the accessory plate and then installed the plate on the engine. I set the gaps between the mags and the flywheel using the shim that came with the kit.
Before continuing march farther, since the engine was getting bigger and heavier with each step, I decided I might as well mount it to the plane while it was still manageable. I copied Ryan Roth's Method of just setting the engine on a table lined up with the front of the plane so I didn't have to lift it. I found a folding table that when added to a couple boards set the engine at about the right height. Then I got the front of the plane as close as I could to lined up, raised the tail so it was level, and then from there I was able to manhandle the engine onto the mount. Soapy water helped a lot getting the rubber bushings seated!
Shortly after finishing that I got another tip from Ryan. The plans don't call for any washers on the back side of the bushings, but over time the bushings will squish over the engine mounts and mess up the engine's alignment. While I still had everything out I just set the engine back down on the table, put washers behind the bushings, and reinstalled everything. If I need to make alignment adjustments later I will just use slotted washers like Ryan did so I don't have to completely remove the engine again.
Moving on, I went ahead and installed the oil cooler and the head studs. I took a tip from Tom Wilson's VW engine book and put some form-a-gasket sealant on the threads of each head stud where they mate with the engine case.
Next I installed the mini-sump on the bottom.
Finally, I assembled the oil pump on the lower front!
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